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Songkran

It all started with a trip to the hospital. 

Jason was feverish again (now, over one month fever free! cross your fingers!) and so we went to a Bangkok hospital (over here, hospitals are where the general populous go to get medical attention. I don’t think there are PCPs) to try and get it sorted out again. By the time we left the hospital, and coincidentally coinciding with our visit to Au Bon Pan in the lobby, he was miraculously feeling much better and we decided we would walk back to the nearby train station. 

We had seen, from afar, cabals of teenagers roaming in the back of pick-ups, yelling at passerbys and indiscriminately attacking pedestrians (with water). We had heard rumors of similar unrest throughout the city but we hoped to avoid it—assuming the tumult would be contained to the locals. We never expected it to get so out of hand.  

At 4:39 PM on April 13, 2012 Jason was struck with three bucketloads of water (you can see the perpetrators in the background). We did not immediately take defensive action, but hoped that by allowing this incident one time, we would be exempt from further altercations. 

That night, we were proven otherwise. It was time to take matters into our own hands. 

The next day we headed to the “ammunition” store where every possible means of throwing water on other people was for sale. Despite the impressive display, it was clear that most of the merchandise had been rifled through, tested and sold already. 

We deliberated carefully over which leftover weapon to purchase. Would a huge super-soaker be best? A turtle backpack reservoir for backup water? Neon green, orange, yellow? In the end, we both chose stealthier (read: small and cheap) weapons. Jason opted for a powerful combination with a pistol for each hand and I chose a clever gun which, like those moths that look like eyes or whatever, was designed to intimidate and confuse attackers with an aggressive weird blue cat. 

With that we put on our game faces (we are very serious) and headed into the action to get our revenge.

As we stepped off the train and surveyed the station, we were greeted by the sound of distant screams and a pervasive wet smell. There was none of the regular milling about on the train platform. Everyone was single-mindedly heading down to the street with the same purpose: making people wet. 

We stopped to survey the scene from the safety of the overpass.   What we saw was massive chaos.

(might want to turn the volume down)

Vendors lined the street selling ammunition (water and pricier ice water) for those in the brutal battle and cold beer as a sort of energy elixir for exhausted combatants. Observing the crowd from above, an unknown variable was discovered.  Many people had buckets of white chalk water which was generously applied to faces, local and foreigner alike (Especially foreigners with really white skin. I definitely got more than Jason did. (Ha ha! Joke’s on them, my face is so white you can’t see white chalk!)). Oh well, an unavoidable hazard. And in the middle of it all, a solid wall of people marched in slow motion with no destination in mind, only soaking and being soaked. And sometimes applying chalk to strangers’ faces. 

Within seconds of entering the churning mass of people, we were soaked through. Any idea about where we were headed was washed away (hah) and we were absorbed into the dripping hive-mind that gripped the entire city that weekend. We marched on, shoulder to shoulder with thousands of other Bangkok-ites, smiling and being continually showered; our tiny, cheap guns no match for the mass of better equipped locals and their sheer numbers. The city had even brought in the fire department to try and control the crowd. But it only got everyone more wet.

After no more than an hour of overwhelming wetness, we admitted defeat and hightailed it (slowly) to the sidelines. Even escaping the center of the crazy didn’t exempt us from attacks. All the slow way back to the train platform we were barraged from all sides. At the top we surveyed the damage. 

Black was a poor choice. 

    • #Bangkok
    • #Thailand
    • #April
    • #2012
    • #craziness
  • 11 months ago
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Well, I don’t know how much there is to say about this. We went fishing and obviously we are the best fishers in the world*. We were accompanied by Mickey, an awesome Bangkok native whom we met at Startup Workaway. Mickey is the best and patiently explained to me what a bunch of street food was (sausages made of fish, chicken, beef, pork, you can tell by the color; papaya salad stall recognizable by the big wooden bowl; shredded yellow stuff made of egg yolk; etc), shuttled us around and was a generally all around fun guy. And his lovely mother rented us one of her apartments for the month. Such a wonderful experience.

ANYWAY, fishing. We caught some big fish.

*Where fishers means we went to Bungsamran fishing park, hired a guide who did everything from making the bait from crumbs and weird green liquid, threading the hook, loading the bait, casting the line, and telling us when we had a bite. We did reel the fish in ourselves (mostly), which took quite a bit of effort but when us three who have fished maybe 5 times between us can reel in 2 fish each of enormous size in 3 hours, it’s got to be pretty easy. 

    • #Bangkok
    • #Thailand
    • #April
    • #2012
    • #fishing
  • 1 year ago
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And they were all….

In Bangkok we finally got comfortable enough to have a night on the town so we had tapas at a proper restaurant (should have stuck to Thai food) and went to a well known tourist show called Calypso Cabaret.

We arrived pretty early so we spent a while wandering the streets. 

We were near Nana station which is a pretty heavy tourist spot (and is also known for it’s *ahem* lady acquaintances) so there were street stalls selling all sorts of stuff (including off brand viagra and sex toys (even though it’s supposedly illegal)…yikes) all over. There was a fully stocked, psychedelic party bus pumping loud American hip hop music (which admittedly we enjoyed). 

———————————-

You know how in the States when you go to an ethnic restaurant and you wonder if whatever you just ordered actually exists in the country?

Well mango with sticky rice gloriously exists in Thailand and it is probably one of the best things on the planet (or at least the city…). Actually, all of the amazing fruit here is one of the best things on the planet.

Take a minute to daydream about how awesome mango sticky rice is…..

Now that that’s over, back to the story at hand. Eventually we wandered to the hotel where the show is played and sit around in the dimly lit, black marble with gold accents lobby, which was most certainly not updated since the late 80’s, and wait with throngs of other not-Thai people. We reveled in being able to eavesdrop on others’ conversations and understand them (Although one positive effect of the language barrier is that there’s plenty of advertising in these countries but we can’t read/understand any of them so it’s like there isn’t any!).

Finally we were admitted into the theater and found ourselves in an intimate, dimly lit room, with wall-to-wall red carpet, and rows of tables in semicircles. We found our seat, ordered our complimentary drinks. (Jason got generic beer but I opted for orange soda as  I had only just gotten over nursing perhaps the worst hangover I’ve ever had from drinking Thai pineapple wine (tasty!) while playing winning an epic game of Canasta (yep, we’re party animals)) and waited for the show to start. 

And start it DID. (click through to continue)

(After the break, you know, are people being a little less clothed. Not naked. Just sayin’.)

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    • #2012
    • #Bangkok
    • #Thailand
    • #ladyboy
  • 1 year ago
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So we thought we had gotten past guys yelling about buying his vegetables early in the morning when we left Delhi. And since we moved to a high rise apartment (ok, I admit, 5th floor).
We were wrong.
And this guy has a loudspeaker.
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So we thought we had gotten past guys yelling about buying his vegetables early in the morning when we left Delhi. And since we moved to a high rise apartment (ok, I admit, 5th floor).

We were wrong.

And this guy has a loudspeaker.

    • #Thailand
    • #Bangkok
    • #April
    • #2012
    • #That's just how it is
  • 1 year ago
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Overnight sleeper bus to Luang Prabang….boy oh boy oh  boy
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Overnight sleeper bus to Luang Prabang….boy oh boy oh boy

    • #Laos
    • #transportation
    • #bus
    • #April
    • #2012
  • 1 year ago
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An aisle in the Prom Radchata night market, abandoned during the day.
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An aisle in the Prom Radchata night market, abandoned during the day.

    • #Thailand
    • #Bangkok
    • #2012
  • 1 year ago
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Lumpini Park

Lumpini Park is in the middle of downtown Bangkok, sort of on the scale of Boston Commons. It’s a lovely, peaceful oasis in the middle of bustling Bangkok.

There was an entire outdoor gym with ripped dudes pumping and nearby, a public section of the park with workout equipment sprinkled around. 

Great idea! Are there similar things anywhere in the US?

    • #Thailand
    • #March 2012
    • #Bangkok
    • #2012
  • 1 year ago
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Koh Samui night market

After eating a delicious meal, we zipped on our trusty motorbike over to the Friday night market at Fisherman’s Pier on the Island. It’s a popular tourist destination and filled with lots of restaurants catering to tourists and shops with kitsch souvenirs. But we love night markets for their festive atmosphere, plentiful food and varied wares (including free samples of Thai wine made from grapes, lychee, and pineapple. YES PLEASE).

 

The second most funny thing we found at the market was a stand selling insects to eat. This maybe old hat to more experienced travelers or, I don’t know, people from Thailand, but it was very interesting for us. We spent a little time gawking and exclaiming over it but ended up passing it by for being too weird. But the market was linear so we had to pass it again. This time I was trying to get Jason to convince me that it was a good idea to eat some. He pretty much failed at that, but another foreigner standing next to us overheard our conversation and said he just got some and ate one and it wasn’t too bad.

So, there it was. We had a choice between huge locusts(?) (pictured), maggot-y worms, and crickets.

We chose the crickets.

The deep fried cricket, seasoned with soy sauce and basil, was very crunchy and didn’t really taste like much except fried matter seasoned with soy sauce and basil. …Except that weird stale flavor that comes through…

We immediately bought a coke at the stall immediately next to the cricket stand after swallowing our respective crickets.

The rest of the crickets we took back to the resort to share with the other members.

They weren’t that popular.

The first most funny thing was a young teenage girl wearing a shirt saying something like “**ck monster nazi prick” which I thought was so amusing I chased her down and asked to take a picture. Jason was so thrilled that he wanted to look at the picture right away on my camera screen and promptly deleted it. So instead of that gem, here’s another one I caught on the Bangkok BTS. And while it doesn’t invlove nazis, it’s still pretty funny.

If you can’t read it, it says “our owners crunch our bodies like crisps” surrounded by a huge heart and flowers.

    • #Thailand
    • #March 2012
    • #Koh Samui
    • #Startup Workaway
    • #food
    • #2012
  • 1 year ago
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On route to Laos
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On route to Laos

    • #Thailand
    • #Bangkok
    • #transportation
    • #April
    • #2012
  • 1 year ago
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Snorkeling

A few more pictures. This time from our snorkeling trip (Ok, there are not any pictures of anyone snorkeling, but camera+water = sad camera). You can see the big Buddha from afar giving a better sense of scale. And some fishermen. And some rocks and stuff.

The snorkeling trip was OK. There was a 2 hour long, extremely rough boat ride out to some reefs that the more experienced divers said were mostly dead. Anyway, looking at fishes is cool and at some point the boat hands threw little pieces of bananas into the water right next to us and all these fish swarmed to eat it and didn’t care how close they were to me. When I looked underwater at all of the hundreds of fish squirming around me I couldn’t help but giggle uncontrollably, but that led to lots of saltwater in my nose and mouth until I could come up for air and start again. 

There were also sea urchins with spikes at least a foot long. I mean really menacing. 

And a lot of sea cucumbers like fat, colorful slugs. I poked one (gently!) with a sea stick and it just squished like a balloon full of water.

    • #Thailand
    • #March 2012
    • #Koh Samui
    • #Startup Workaway
    • #2012
    • #Animals
  • 1 year ago
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